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Spirit Living Drum Care Tip

Rawhide frame drums are a joy to play. Changing their sound with the weather, these drums behave more like a living organism than a synthetic head drum. If it's too damp they become hard to play, however, when they get too dry they run the risk of being damaged. As a drum head dries, it shrinks. If it shrinks too much it can actually split--rendering the drum useless.

Just as our own hands need help when they get too dry, your rawhide drum head needs to be moisturized. The best kind of treatment is one made from purified animal fat. An easy-to-find source is pure lanolin. Lanolin is a grease obtained from wool and used in soaps, cosmetics and ointments. It is a natural product which is like the natural oils we secrete from our own skin.

A small amount of lanolin applied with the hands and massaged into the drum head can help stabilize the rawhide and protect it from splitting. (The added benefit of rubbing it in with your hands is that they will get the moisturizing treatment too!) Since the excess lanolin can be sticky, if possible rub it on the underside of the drum head. This will protect your clothing from the grease.

If you live in a dry climate or use heating in the cold months, make sure to treat your drum head with lanolin every year. Always store your drum away from all heat sources. Never, ever leave it in your car as the heat build-up from the sun can ruin a drum quickly. Treat your drum well and it will be a treasured companion for many years

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Spirit Living Nature Tip

Avoiding Tick Bites

The increase in tick-bourne diseases shouldn't keep you from enjoying the outdoors.  With simple, sensible precautions, your voyages into Nature can be tick and worry free!

1. Avoid Areas with Lots of Ticks

  • Avoid wooded and bushy areas with high grass and leaf litter.
  • Take extra precautions late spring through early fall when ticks that transmit disease are active. • Walk in the center of the trail when in the woods or high grass.
  • Ask your local health department and park or extension service about tick infested areas to avoid.

 2. Keep Ticks Off Your Skin • Apply insect repellent with 20% DEET or more on skin and clothing when you go outdoors (for kids too!). Don’t spray repellent on skin under clothing.

  • Permethrin sprayed on clothing kills ticks on contact and provides protection through several washings. Don’t use permethrin on skin.
  • Cover up! Wear long pants, long sleeves and long socks. Light-colored clothing will help you spot ticks more easily. Tucking pant legs into socks or boots and tucking shirts into pants help keep ticks on the outside of clothing.

3. Perform Tick Checks!

  • Remove ticks from your clothes before going indoors. Wash your clothes with hot water and dry them using high heat for at least one hour.
  • Check your body and your child’s body for ticks after being outdoors, even in your own yard. Use a mirror to view all parts of your body (in armpits, behind ears, in groin, etc.) and remove any ticks you find.

4. Safely Remove Ticks

  • Early tick removal may reduce the risk of infection of some tick-borne diseases.
  • Follow the steps below to safely remove ticks from animals and humans.

1. Use fine-tipped tweezers and protect bare hands with a tissue or gloves to avoid contact with tick fluids.

2. Grab the tick close to the skin. Do not twist or jerk the tick as this may cause the mouth parts to break off and remain in the skin.

3. Gently pull straight up until all parts of the tick are removed.

4. After removing the tick, wash your hands with soap and water or waterless alcohol-based hand rub. Clean the tick bite with an antiseptic such as iodine scrub, rubbing alcohol or soap and water.

5. Contact your healthcare provider if you develop fever, headache, fatigue or rash.

Source: Centers for Disease Control:  www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/lyme/resources/tick_infocard.pdf

Please send your comments to:  editors@spiritliving.org.

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S P I R IT . C R A F T I N G

 

Rawhide Rattles
by Heather Harden

Most early cultures used sound to communicate with Nature and the World of Spirit. It began with the human voice and as humans learned to use tools and fashion objects from animal hides and other natural materials – drums and rattles were born. Rattles are found in many traditions and on every continent.  Their forms may vary, but they are a near constant in healing ceremonies and celebrations around the world.  They are used as musical instruments and as healing tools.  This month we will be making rattles from rawhide dog chews.

Tools:

  • Needle with large eye (Glover’s needle, chenille or tapestry needle)
  • Sharp scissors (these will be used to cut wet rawhide; Kitchen or utility scissors work well)
  • Small hammer
  • Drill (hand or electric) and small bit (5/32” or 11/16”)
  • Medium size funnel
  • Scrap of soft wood (scrap of pine shelving, at least 5” wide by 8” long or a scrap of 2 X 4; old cutting boards or plywood do not work well for this task)
  • Old chopsticks or a similar sized stick
  • Small hand saw
  • Bowl or container large enough to soak the rawhide
  • Pencil
  • Heavy paper to make the rattle pattern

Optional, but handy

  • 2 spring style cloths pins
  • Hot glue gun & glue sticks
  • Permanent Markers
  • Acrylic paint & brushes

Materials:

  • Rawhide dog chews (many pet stores sell squares of rawhide by the pound, try to pick two that match in thickness and color.  If those are unavailable, the rawhide rolls or knots will work)
  • Stick for the rattle handle, at least 3/4” in diameter and a foot long (not a dowel) 
  • Artificial sinew (this is very strong nylon thread that has been coated with beeswax; it is available at craft or bead stores)
  • About 5-6 cups of CLEAN gravel (beach sand will not work!)
  • 4D finishing or common nail or any nail approximately the size of a wooden pencil lead
  • About 2 tablespoons of unpopped corn, glass beads or small pebbles
  • Small scrap of leather, fur, ribbon or fabric to embellish the finished rattle

Preparing the Rawhide

Prior to working with the rawhide, it needs to be soaked for several hours.  Soak the rawhide in plain warm water in a container that is large enough to completely submerse the rawhide. 

If you are using a rawhide roll or knot, plan to soak them overnight so they are soft enough to pull them apart.  The small squares of rawhide are usually pliable enough to work with after 3 – 4 hours. 

When the rawhide is pliable, wipe off the excess moisture with a paper towel and lay it on your work surface.  Notice that there is a difference in the two sides of the rawhide.  When you make your rattle, the skin side should be facing out. In the photo below, the piece on the left is skin side up; the skin is usually smoother and lighter in color.  The piece on the right shows the under side of the skin, this can be darker, rougher and sometimes can have knife marks.

Choosing a Rattle Handle

First and foremost the stick you choose for your handle should feel comfortable in your hand. The stick should be at least ¾” in diameter and a foot long.  I find a gently curved sick to be more ergonomic than a straight stick.    Clean driftwood makes an attractive rattle handle.  If you are planning to remove the bark, it is easiest to do when the wood is fresh cut. Natural sticks are more appropriate than dowels for this task.

Rattle Shapes
 
I like to make a paper pattern for my rattles.  This enables me to try the shape out on the handle and get the pattern symmetrical.  A good shape to start with is a light bulb shape.  Here are some examples of patterns I have used. 

A simple way to make the shape symmetrical is to fold the paper in half, draw half the pattern and cut around the outline. (Remember how you made Valentine’s Day hearts).  . 

Notice in the photo above there is an area marked ‘Handle’.  This must fit half way around the rattle handle and have ¼ to ½” on either side for the seam.  It is better to have extra and trim it away when you fit it to the rattle handle

If the shape you choose is not symmetrical, you will need to make two patterns that are mirror images or remember to reverse the pattern when you trace it on the rawhide.

Making the Rattle

When you have a shape that you are happy with lay the shape on the rawhide and trace around it with a pencil. 

Remember to reverse the pattern for the right and left sides of the rattle, if your shape is not symmetrical.

Carefully cut on the traced line, taking care to hold the scissors at right angles to the hide.  This will ensure an even edge. When both sides of the rattle are cut, lay the first rattle piece on your work surface with the skin side to the work surface and lay the other piece on top with the skin side facing up. Please note that the pieces are offset for demonstration purposes.


             
Preparing to Sew

The next step in the process is making holes in the rawhide to make sewing the rattle together easier.  You will be making a few holes, sewing these and then making a few more holes around the edges of the rattle.   Carefully align the two pieces and lay them on the piece of wood. I like to start at the top of the rattle and sew around each edge.

  

Using hammer and nail, start at the top of the rattle and make holes about a ¼” from the edge of the rawhide and ¼” apart.  Make 4 to 5 holes at a time. 


           
Sewing the Rattle

Thread your needle with about a yard of the sinew.  To anchor the sinew, your first stitch will be started from the inside, between the two sides of the rattle.


 
Pull the thread through and make a square knot) on the inside of the rattle.http://www.ehow.com/how_7536_tie-square-knot-properly.html

To complete the first stitch, insert the needle in the first hole on the other side to the rattle, also from the inside. 

Pull the sinew through and reinsert the needle in the hole where you took the first stitch.  This time you will be inserting the needle from the outside of the rattle.  Push the needle though both thicknesses of the rawhide and pull the sinew though. 

The sinew should be pulled firmly to crease the rawhide, but not so hard as to tear it.  Continue to sew all the way down the edge of the rattle, inserting the needle front to back.  Stop sewing when you get to the spot where the body of the rattle meets the handle.

Before sewing the edge of rattle that fits around the handle, it is a good idea to check the fit. Insert the handle into the rattle and clip a cloths pin on each side so there is an equal amount of rawhide on each side.


 
If there is more rawhide on each side than is required for a seam, you will need to mark the extra and trim it off.

After you have trimmed the excess rawhide, continue the seam to the bottom edge of the handle.  I like to take a couple of extra stitches in the last hole on the handle for reinforcement. Leave the excess sinew attached at the bottom edge, it will be used in a later process. 

Sew the other edge of the rattle the same as the first. 

I usually cut my rattle handle longer than I think I will need it and trim it after the rattle is sewn.  Insert the rattle handle into the rattle to check the length.  Mark and trim the handle if necessary.  Make sure the rattle handle extends at lesat1½” into the rattle.


 
Giving the Rattle Shape

Next you will be shaping the rattle by filling it with gravel.  Insert the funnel in the open end of the rattle where the handle will be inserted.  Slowly fill the funnel with gravel.  You may need to coax some small pebbles down with a small stick or a chopstick

As you fill the rattle, remove the funnel and use a chopstick to pack the gravel in all areas of the rattle. When the rattle is slightly more than half full use your rattle handle to tamp the gravel.  Continue to tamp and fill.

If you do not fill the rattle firmly enough in can wrinkle when it dries. Take care to fill the area where the handle meets the body of the rattle, this area can droop during the drying process.  When you think you have filled the rattle with enough gravel, put some more in and insert the rattle handle.  The rattle has enough gravel in it, when you cannot dent it by applying firm pressure with your thumb. Gently mold the rattle to smooth out any bulges or flat places. Wrap the excess sinew around the handle area of the rattle to keep the seams smooth and flat during the drying process.

Drying the Rattle

This stage requires a bit of patience.  There are two ways to dry your rattle.  Lay it flat and leave it undisturbed for at least 36 – 48 hours, depending on the humidity.  Or dry it in the oven at the lowest temperature setting (150 - 2000 F).  Lay the rattle on a baking sheet.  If your handle seems at all wobbly, prop it up with a rolled up ball of aluminum foil.  Set your oven to the lowest setting and bake your rattle for about a half hour on each side.  At the end of the hour, I turn my oven off and leave the rattle in there, just to get a little extra dry time. 

Is My Rattle Dry?

The rawhide should be somewhat lighter in color and if you tap on the rattle with your fingernail it should make a slightly hollow, crisp tapping sound.  This is the time to err on the side of caution.  If there is any doubt it may still be damp in the inside, let it air dry a bit longer or bake it another half hour.  If  the rattle is not completely dry, it can collapse when the gravel is removed.  All is not lost, if this does happen.  Soak the rattle, refill with gravel and dry it again – longer this time!

Remove the rattle handle and pour out the gravel. Bits of gravel will continue to come out for a time as you use your rattle.

Giving Your Rattle its Voice

Before reinserting the rattle handle for the final time, choose the items that will give your rattle its voice.  I chose small pebbles, this time. 

Frequently, I use glass beads of varying sizes.  The variety of sizes makes a range of sounds.  Unpopped popcorn is another popular choice.  To test the sound, I put a few of the items in the rattle and shake. Then I add, remove or change the items until I find a sound that is pleasing.
 
Reinsert the rattle handle and make any final adjustments to its placement.  You can coat the end of the rattle handle of hot glue using a hot glue gun.

When you are satisfied with the handle placement, use a hand or power drill to make a small hole through the handle.  This will be used to sew the rattle to the handle.

Thread your needle with one of the leftover ends of the sinew.  Insert the needle in the hole.  Bring the sinew around the underside of the handle and go through the hole again.  You will be making a figure eight motion, with the hole being the pivot point. 

Do this several times with each of the ends.  Firmly tie the ends together with a square knot and trim.

Finishing Touches

The final step is decorating your rattle.  I glued a bit of leather to the cover the hole and the sinew where the rattle was attached to the handle. You can use permanent markers or acrylic paint to decorate the rattles.

Enjoy your rattle!!!!!! Send us photos of you and your rattles!!!!

Got cool spirit crafting ideas? Send them into SpriritLiving at submissions@spiritliving.org and please include pictures of the steps! 

 

 

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